The New York Times > Travel > Does the Affordable Paris Bistro Still Exist? Oui.
NSIDE Chez Michel, a cozy neighborhood bistro beyond the Gare du Nord, the atmosphere is a tad nautical, the menu dotted with specialties of Brittany. My companion and I share brouillade d’oeufs, the creamy stew of scrambled eggs and cream, a stew of wild boar and a fantastic brandade de morue, the elegant and classic salt cod mousse – this one served in a little jam jar, beautifully browned on top and accompanied by broiled tomato, tapenade and salad. We eat well – too well, bien sûr – and can’t come close to finishing what’s set before us, three-plus courses and no stinting in sight. I finish with a gorgeous Paris-Brest – cream-filled puff pastry with almonds; she, with a quince claufoutis. It is a meal any chef would be proud of, and one that would immensely please most diners.