I’ve written before about Turkish and Moroccan Hammam, as well as Korean jimjilbang – now it’s time to talk about the Japanese version – onsen. These are bath houses but don’t get them confused with a soapland which is a different thing entirely – though still involving a bath. Onsen are traditional, segregated by sex, and quite wonderful and relaxing. There are some strict rules that go along with them. One of which I broke today…
Most likely any American who has been to Japan knows this, but the Japanese almost never get tattoos unless they are associated with gangs (or serious rebels). The reason Americans who have come to Japan would know this is because if you have tattoos (no matter your nationality) you are not allowed to use the majority of the onsen (public baths and saunas). There are pretty strict rules against it.
The first onsen I went to on this trip was a very local and also very gangsta place. The Japanese dudes there were covered in them. I got some cross looks and no friend making gestures there – I think they were like “WTF is this gaijin doing here?” but I got to soak and enjoy.
My tattoos aren’t huge sleeves or anything and I often forget I have them. Case in point, this tourist hotel I’m staying at has a very nice onsen – which is one of the reasons I booked it. It’s a Japanese tourist hotel though – so, when I got down to the bath, carrying my towels and washing stuff – I was bummed to see that there was a no tattoos sign. It was early though, so there were only a couple of old men there.
I figured they would tell me if it was a big deal. They didn’t seem to care as I changed and washed, had a little soak, and then sat in the sauna for a while. There was only one other guy in the sauna. After a few minutes, I could feel him looking at me. I looked up but he got up and left.
I just had a feeling. So I got up and left, rinsed, dried off, and started putting my clothes on. I was a little bit fast about it, but still feeling pretty relaxed. I was pulling my shirt on when a guy in a suit came in – and went straight to the sauna. He wasn’t going for a steam bath in that suit.
Anyway, I was done, still utterly relaxed and walking out as he came out of the sauna. He didn’t say anything – neither did I.
As I thought about this idea of tattoos excluding you from such a wonderful cultural experience, it occurred to me that it’s one more thing to admire the Japanese for. I’m certain they know that the majority of foreigners under a certain age have tattoos and aren’t criminals or gang members.
So why keep the rule? Honestly, it’s brilliant. It’s a self segregating system that keeps a cultural treasure from being appropriated. There are quite a few tattoo and foreigner friendly onsen popping up – which is fine, but I hope they don’t change their rule – even though it forced me to actually prove that I am a criminal today, by taking a bath even though I do have tattoos. I’m just glad I didn’t actually get in trouble.